Broken joints don’t mean broken furniture. With the right approach, you can repair failed joinery invisibly, restoring structural integrity while leaving no evidence of the fix. The key is understanding why the joint failed and addressing that cause while rebuilding the connection.
Diagnosing the Failure

Before repairing, examine what went wrong. Glue failure shows adhesive residue on both surfaces; the glue itself gave up before the wood. Wood failure shows torn fibers, meaning the glue held but the wood couldn’t. Joint design failure shows intact surfaces that simply separated because mechanical interlock was insufficient.
Each diagnosis suggests a different repair approach. Glue failure might need only fresh adhesive. Wood failure requires reinforcement. Design failure demands joint modification or replacement.
Cleaning the Joint Surfaces
Old glue doesn’t bond to new glue. You must remove all traces of previous adhesive to create a viable new bond. Scrape hardened glue with a sharp chisel, taking care not to remove wood or change joint geometry.
For PVA glues, a water-dampened rag followed by scraping removes most residue. For hide glue, steam or hot water softens the adhesive for removal. Epoxy requires mechanical scraping or careful heating with a heat gun.
Check both mating surfaces. Old glue hides in corners and crevices, preventing the new adhesive from reaching wood. Be thorough.
Reinforcing Weak Joints
If the original joint design was marginal, adding reinforcement during repair makes sense. Dowels inserted through previously undrilled mortise-and-tenon joints add mechanical strength. Glue blocks inside corners support previously glue-only connections.
The repair should be invisible from the outside if possible. Drill dowel holes from the inside of case pieces or through surfaces that won’t show. Plan your approach before committing to irreversible modifications.
Dutchman Patches
When wood has broken out around a joint, a Dutchman patch fills the missing material. Cut out the damaged area in a regular shape, usually rectangular with beveled edges for registration. Create a patch from matching wood, fitted precisely to the recess.
Grain direction in the patch must match the surrounding wood, or the repair will be visible forever. Color matching matters less than grain matching; stain adjustments can correct color, but nothing fixes misaligned grain.
Scarf Joints for Broken Rails
A clean break across a rail can be rejoined with a scarf patch. Cut matching angles on both broken ends and on a new splice piece, creating overlapping glue surfaces much larger than the original break.
The angle of the scarf should run about 8:1 or longer, meaning the splice length is eight times the rail thickness. This provides adequate glue surface for structural strength. Steeper angles create visible lines; shallower angles waste material.
Loose Tenons for Rebuilt Joints
When a tenon has broken off in the mortise, you can’t simply reglue. Remove the broken tenon from the mortise by drilling and chiseling. Cut the remaining stub from the rail. Now create a new mortise in the rail end and insert a loose tenon that spans both mortises.
The loose tenon functions identically to an integral tenon once glued. Size it for a snug friction fit in both mortises, and reinforce with drawbore pins if the original joint was structural.
Invisible Finish Matching
The structural repair is only half the job. Matching the finish requires patience. Strip finish from the repair area if possible, then refinish to match surrounding surfaces.
If stripping isn’t practical, test finish combinations on scrap of the same species. Layer stains and topcoats until you achieve a match. The repair wood often needs different treatment than the original aged wood to reach the same final color.
A well-executed repair becomes part of the furniture’s history without announcing itself. The joint that failed once won’t fail again, and no one but you will know the work was ever damaged.
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