Titebond I vs II vs III: Which Wood Glue for Which Project?

Walk into any hardware store and you’ll face a shelf of Titebond bottles, each promising to be the right glue for some application. Original, II, III, the numbers climb but the differences remain murky. Here’s what actually matters when choosing between them.

Titebond Original (I)

Woodworking technique
Woodworking technique demonstration

The classic yellow wood glue has earned its reputation over decades. It sets faster than the others, typically within 30 minutes to an hour, which speeds production but limits open assembly time. If your joints are complex and require careful positioning, this quick set time becomes a liability.

Original provides excellent initial tack, grabbing wood quickly during clamping. The dried glue sands easily without gumming, important for any joint with potential squeeze-out on visible surfaces. It’s also the least expensive option.

Use Original for indoor furniture, jigs, and workshop projects. Any application that stays climate-controlled and never sees significant moisture is a candidate. Don’t use it for outdoor projects, even under cover.

Titebond II Premium

The water resistance of Type II glue allows outdoor use where the joint won’t be continuously wet or submerged. Covered porches, window frames with proper finish, and exterior doors all fall into this category. It’s not waterproof but handles occasional moisture exposure.

Open time extends to about 10 minutes versus 5-6 for Original. This extra time matters for complex assemblies but remains relatively short compared to specialized products. You still need to work efficiently.

Titebond II passes the ANSI Type II water resistance specification, which requires surviving cycles of soaking and drying. For reference, this exceeds the exposure most covered outdoor furniture ever faces.

Titebond III Ultimate

The highest level of water resistance available in PVA glues, Titebond III is essentially waterproof after full cure. Cutting boards, outdoor furniture with direct rain exposure, and marine applications all call for Type III.

Open time extends to 10 minutes, and the glue remains workable longer during assembly. The extended working time comes from a slower set, which means longer clamp time, typically 24 hours for full strength versus overnight for I and II.

The formula is FDA approved for indirect food contact after curing, making it the standard choice for cutting boards and kitchen utensils. While Original is also FDA compliant, III’s waterproof nature better survives repeated washing.

Temperature Considerations

All three formulas require minimum application temperatures, and they differ significantly. Original works down to 50 degrees F. Titebond II needs 55 degrees F. Titebond III requires 47 degrees F, giving it an advantage in cold shops.

Cold glue applied to cold wood doesn’t penetrate properly, creating weak joints that fail unpredictably. If your shop temperature is marginal, bring both glue and workpieces inside to warm before assembly.

Color and Visibility

Original dries to a honey-amber color that can show through light-colored woods. Titebond II dries similarly. Titebond III dries darker, approaching brown, which is more visible in light species but less noticeable in walnut or dark oak.

For joints where squeeze-out might remain visible, test on scrap in your actual species. The wrong glue color creates an amateur-looking line that no amount of stain completely hides.

Making the Choice

Most shop furniture and indoor pieces work fine with Original. The faster set time actually helps when you want to continue working on a project. Keep a bottle as your everyday glue.

Stock Titebond III for any project involving water exposure or food contact. The higher cost is marginal per joint and eliminates any worry about appropriate application. When in doubt, III gives you the most peace of mind.

Titebond II occupies a middle ground that fewer projects actually need. If you’re building outdoor furniture, you might as well use III. If it’s indoor only, Original works fine. II is best for specific situations where cost matters and exposure is limited to occasional moisture.

David Chen

David Chen

Author & Expert

David Chen is a professional woodworker and furniture maker with over 15 years of experience in fine joinery and custom cabinetry. He trained under master craftsmen in traditional Japanese and European woodworking techniques and operates a small workshop in the Pacific Northwest. David holds certifications from the Furniture Society and regularly teaches woodworking classes at local community colleges. His work has been featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking.

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