Finger Joint Tips

Understanding Finger Joints in Woodworking

Woodworking technique demonstration
Professional woodworking technique

Finger joints, also known as comb joints in some regions, serve a dual purpose in woodworking: they create exceptionally strong long-grain to long-grain glue joints for edge-joining boards, and they provide an attractive interlocking pattern for corner joinery. While often confused with box joints, true finger joints typically feature more, thinner interlocking pieces and are frequently used in commercial lumber production for creating longer boards from shorter stock.

Finger Joints vs. Box Joints

The terminology can be confusing, as many woodworkers use these terms interchangeably. Traditionally, finger joints refer to the angled interlocking cuts used in commercial lumber production and long-board manufacturing. The fingers are cut at slight angles to maximize glue surface and create mechanical resistance to pulling apart. Box joints, by contrast, feature square-cut fingers designed primarily for corner construction. Understanding this distinction helps when selecting the right joint for your application.

When to Use Finger Joints

Finger joints excel in several scenarios: extending the length of lumber, joining shorter boards end-to-end to create longer workpieces, and producing decorative corner treatments where a strong mechanical bond is desired. The joint is particularly valuable when working with shorter offcuts that would otherwise become scrap, transforming them into usable longer stock.

Cutting Finger Joints

Router Table Method

A finger joint bit in a router table provides perhaps the most accessible method for hobby woodworkers. These specialized bits cut both the pins and sockets simultaneously when the mating pieces are oriented correctly. Position the router table fence to align the bit properly with your stock thickness, and make test cuts on scrap before committing to project wood. The key is consistent fence pressure throughout the cut.

Table Saw Approach

Using a dado stack and a dedicated finger joint jig produces excellent results. The jig works similarly to a box joint jig but typically with finer spacing for smaller, more numerous fingers. Accuracy in the indexing pin placement determines success—measure and test repeatedly before cutting project pieces.

Angle Considerations

Commercial finger joints often feature slightly angled cuts that create a wedging effect when assembled. This angle, typically between 5 and 10 degrees from perpendicular, increases the effective glue surface and creates mechanical interlock that resists tension forces. While more challenging to cut, angled finger joints provide superior strength for structural applications.

Achieving Alignment

Registration and Clamping

Perfect alignment during glue-up is essential. The interlocking nature of finger joints means that misalignment becomes immediately visible and compromises joint strength. Use cauls (straight boards) above and below the joint during clamping to ensure the mating pieces remain flat and aligned. Apply even clamping pressure across the entire joint length.

Glue Application

Apply glue to all mating surfaces of the fingers. The multiple glue surfaces require adequate coverage but avoid excessive glue that creates cleanup problems. A thin, even coating on all finger faces produces the strongest bond. Work efficiently, as the assembly must be completed before the glue begins to set.

Finishing and Sanding

After the glue cures completely, sand the joint flush with the surrounding wood surfaces. Start with a grit appropriate for removing any glue squeeze-out and minor misalignment, then progress through finer grits. The contrasting grain direction of the fingers often creates visual interest, especially when joining different wood species for decorative effect.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Gaps in the joint indicate fingers that are too thin or sockets too wide. Joints that will not close fully suggest the opposite problem. Both issues trace back to setup accuracy—the solution is always to return to test cuts and micro-adjust the jig or fence position until the fit is perfect.

David Chen

David Chen

Author & Expert

David Chen is a professional woodworker and furniture maker with over 15 years of experience in fine joinery and custom cabinetry. He trained under master craftsmen in traditional Japanese and European woodworking techniques and operates a small workshop in the Pacific Northwest. David holds certifications from the Furniture Society and regularly teaches woodworking classes at local community colleges. His work has been featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking.

69 Articles
View All Posts

Subscribe for Updates

Get the latest articles delivered to your inbox.